My desicion to go with a 340 replacement block is based upon MOPAR having  included all the things that made the race blocks so desirible , the 4 bolt mains/ thick web & rails/thicker deck/ and thicker bores. The cost is reasonable but not cheap, however it's not $5000 for a race block!
I will still have the top end oiling mod done to increase the oil to the #1 bearing, and have it prepped .030" over.
The stroker kit will come from Mancinni because of the cost and the fact that it comes as a completely balanced assembly. Many people have told me that "H" beam rods would be advisable at the power levels I am shooting for, so they are a selected option with the kit.
The rings will be Total Seal's gapless top ring set, which should help in the leak-down department.
The cam choice has been narrowed down between COMPs XE285HL and Crane's Hydraulic Roller HR-222. I hate to admit that price is a factor here, but a roller setup adds a thousand dollars to the build. The other factor is the dynamic compression ratios of the two setups. The flat tappet cam's is 7.98:1 and the roller's is 7.61:1. They both produce 570 HP @ 6K and 537 ft/lbs@ 5K. I still have to look at the cranking pressure numbers, but as 8:1 is the safe cut off for 92 octane gas, the first set up is pushing the edge. As far as V.E. is concerned they are the same. I will use the High Lift 285 which after tweaking shows 585HP@6K
I was going to use a gear drive for the sake of accuracy. but almost everyone said a good roller chain would be more than enough, and I wouldn't have to deal with harmonics. I was told the Austrailan Rollmaster was the way to go.
My use of applied thin film lubricants in the block will be, where they can be used, they will be used.
The oil of choice for this engine will be a canola based 5w30. This oil has proven to be far superior to even royal purple or redline in tests both in the lab and in the field. In the past I would run Castrol R which is also a vegetable oil (castor based), so using canola oil is not that far out in left field. The data is on the engine tech pages and there is a link on the links page. I have had a PHD chemist whose speciality is engine oils take a look at the data and he was quite impressed with the test results. He confirmed that they were the same tests he would use and the results all seemed to imply a superior product.  What is yet to be seen is the report that these oils increase engine horse power by 10% due to the extreme reduction of friction, That would put this build over the 600 HP mark! We shall see!
Because of the viscosity of the oil I will be running a high volume and high pressure oil pump. The fully grooved main bearings will also aid in oil transfer.
The oil pan will be a milodon 8 quart side kickout pan with the appropiate pick up.
I have also been told that using a windage tray with a 4" stroker crank will be an adventure but one worth doing.
I know this is a lot trouble to go to for a "street" motor but the reduction of friction should translate into longer part life, lower operating temperatures, and increased power.
Every fastner in the engine will be ARP, top and bottom end stud kits included.